Have a Heart

 Plain Heart

Using your preferred cast on method, cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: Knit all sts

Row 2: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1

Repeat these 2 rows until you have increased up to 20 sts, ending after Row 2.

Knit another 2 rows with no increases, then break your yarn and slide your work into the middle of the circular, or the end of the working straight needle.

Repeat the process again to make a 2^nd piece, using the same yarn.

You'll end up with two separate pieces of knitting, which you will then join together, by placing both pieces side by side on your needle and knitting across all 40 stitches.

Row 1-3: Knit all sts

Row 4: K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog through the back of the loops, K1

Repeat these 4 rows until you are left with 2 sts...

Knit these stitches together, break the yarn then pass the end through the remaining loop.

Intarsia Heart

Using your preferred cast on method and Yarn A, cast on 6 sts.

Row 1: Knit all sts

Row 2: K1, kfb, knit to last 2 sts, Kfb, K1

Repeat these 2 rows until you have increased up to 20sts, ending after Row 2.

Knit another 2 rows with no increases, then move your work into the middle of the circular, or the end of the working straight needle...

***Do Not Break Yarn!!***

Repeat the process again, using a different coloured sock yarn, Yarn B

You'll end up with two separate pieces of knitting, which you will then join together by placing them on your needle side by side.

Make sure your pieces of knitting are in the right order on your needle, with your working yarns at the beginning/same end, as when you reach the middle of the heart/changeover of Yarn A and B, you'll need to wrap Yarn A around Yarn B and continue to the end of the row in Yarn B.

Row 1: Knit 20 sts (i.e. to middle of the row, where the colours change) in Yarn A, wrap Yarn A around Yarn B and continue to the end of the row in Yarn B

Row 2: Knit 20 sts in Yarn B, wrap Yarn B around Yarn A and continue to the end of the row in Yarn A

Repeat these 2 rows once more then continue as follows:

Row 3: In Yarn A, K1, K2tog, knit to 1 st before the colour change and place a stitch marker.

(You will now be making an eyelet with a YO K2tog. You'll also find Yarn B is on the wrong side of the work, so you'll need to slip one stitch from your left needle to your right and move Yarn B to to the back of the work, then slip this stitch back onto the left hand needle. The K2tog also uses one stitch from the Yarn A side, and one stitch from the Yarn B side)

Continue Row 3 as follows:

YO, K2tog, wrap Yarn A around Yarn B and then with Yarn B, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog through the back of the loops, K1

Row 4: In Yarn B, knit to 1 st before the colour change and place a stitch marker.

(You will now be making another eyelet with a YO K2tog. You'll also find Yarn A is on the wrong side of the work, so you'll need to slip one stitch from your left needle to your right and move Yarn A to to the back of the work, then slip this stitch back onto the left hand needle. The K2tog also uses one stitch from the Yarn B side, and one stitch from the Yarn A side)

Continue Row 4 as follows:

YO, K2tog, wrap Yarn B around Yarn A and then work, in Yarn A, to the end of the row

Row 5: Knit to middle of row in Yarn A, slipping (but not moving) the marker, wrap Yarn A around Yarn B and continue to the end of the row in Yarn B

Row 6: Knit to middle of row in Yarn B, slipping (but not moving) the marker, wrap Yarn B around Yarn A and continue to the end of the row in Yarn A

Repeat repeat Rows 3 to 6 a total of 6 times, ending on Row 2, so you have 6 sets of mirrored eyelets.

Continue as follows, carrying on with the Intarsia pattern:

Row 7-9: Knit all sts

Row 10:  K1, K2tog, knit to last 3 sts, K2tog through the back of the loops, K1

Repeat rows 7 to 10 until you are left with 2 Sts...

Knit these stitches together, break the yarn then pass the end through the remaining loop.

Sew in your ends and then gently steam block your Heart.

Lace your ribbon through the eyelets and tie in a bow.

Special thanks go to my friend WoollyWormhead, for helping me to get this pattern out of my head, and onto paper in a legible way.